Review: Palau Güell

What’s this place all about?
There are many remarkable things about Palau Güell. First, it’s rumored to be the first Art Nouveau building in the world. Second, the word "palace" really means "home of the Güell family" (the working relationship between Güell and Gaudí was nothing short of a bromance). And, last, you can walk along La Rambla, two minutes away, and be completely oblivious that it exists. Clue: it’s tucked down Calle Nou de la Rambla. Look up, and the tips of mosaic chimneys are the giveaway.

What’s it like being there?
Built between 1886 and 1890, making it an early Gaudí, the mood inside is quite different from later works. Most noticeably, it’s really dark—picture swaths of dark wood with grey marble floors and pillars; not even the glass-domed ceiling in the hall offsets the somber vibe.

Is there a guide involved?
An audio guide is included in the €12 ($13) entrance fee.

Who comes here?
The central location makes it a popular tourist haunt (for those who know it exists)—in fact, it’s the only Gaudí work near La Rambla. Because of that, it’s better to pre-book; you can queue and wait it out, but only 185 people are allowed inside at any one time. Meaning, you'll need to have some patience.

Did it meet expectations?
You’ll be keen if you’re musical— there’s a fabulous old organ that’s often played for concerts—or drawn to the less-gaudy works of Gaudí. Love the colorful stuff? You likely won’t be won over until you hit the roof terrace, where 20 chimneys and an almost 50-foot spire are all about technicolor mosaics: one has yellow and black diamonds, another is shaped like a bunch of bright green grapes.

Anything else to know?
On the first Sunday of every month, Palau Güell is free. Tickets are released in two batches during the day; check release times online as they vary seasonally. That’s the time to go if you’re undecided.