Review: Colònia Güell

Tell me: What’s this place all about?
Like Park Güell, Colònia Güell was one of industrialist Eusebi Güell’s elaborate projects—this time, to build a village (the man thought big). Eager to move his textile mill out of Barcelona center, Güell made a beeline for Santa Coloma de Cervelló, 20km southwest, and hired a team of architects to create everything his workers would need: housing, a school, shops, and a church (Gaudí’s commission). Given no budget or deadline, Gaudí got as far as completing the lower nave when the Güells severed funding. What remains—known as the Crypt—is considered to be the most perfect example of all of Gaudí’s engineering wizardry channeled into one spot.

What’s it like being there?
You'll be left pondering how the building stays up. From the outside, the remarkable thing is a series of leaning arches that look like a hurricane-force wind has blown them out of position. Of course, it’s all deliberate on Gaudí’s part—and as solid as (bent) rocks.

Is there a guide involved?
An audio guide is available with a €9.50 ticket. There are guided tours at midday on Saturday and Sunday, but only in Spanish or Catalan.

How do we get here?
Now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the crypt pulls a committed crowd. It’s a 20-minute train journey from Plaça España; take the FGC train S3, S4, S8, or S9 to Colònia Güell. If you're trying to plan a visit, a good time to go is on a Saturday morning, when a farmers’ market sells seasonal produce, including deliciously ripe fruit, to visitors and locals.

Did it meet expectations?
It’s exciting to learn that, had the church been completed, it would have been an architectural model for La Sagrada Familia. You can see Gaudí’s trademark pillars, stained glass windows, and influences from nature in both.

So, then, what, or who, do you think it’s best for?
Anyone fascinated by history will enjoy the exhibition on what daily life was like on the colony—plus there’s a Gaudí Lab for a deep dive.